The Red Fort

Lal-Qila or Red Fort

                            

                                                          

 

             We all are interested to learn more about history, but many of us feel repellent when they have to write one page after another in the examination hall. After all, we have read about 'Red Fort' in books in our school and college lives, even nowadays its picture visible on the back of ₹500 note. When we read or hear the word 'Red Fort' or 'Lal Qila' then all at once the image of Lahori Gate comes in our mind. Red Fort is a historical fort in the city of Old Delhi in India. Ustad Ahmad Lahori, the chief architect of Taj Mahal, was also the architect of this fort. Its construction began on 12 May 1639 in the era of fifth Mughal Emperor Shah Jahan, and it took nearly nine years to be completed.

 



Ramparts And Gateways

    In 1638 Shah Jahan transferred his capital from Agra to Delhi and laid the foundation of Shahjanabad, the seventh city of Delhi, which was completed in 1649. Shah Jahan also laid the foundation of his citadel, Lal-Qila (Lal-Qala) or Red Fort on 16th April in 1639. Red Forts also known by names in contemporary accounts. It was completed after nine years on the 16th April 1648. The entire fort is said to have cost about one crore of rupees, half of it on the palaces.

 




   The Red Fort, so called because the red colour of the stone largely used in it, is octagonal on plan with two longer sides on the east and west. On the north the fort is connected by a bridge with Salimgarh. It measures about 900 m by 550m, with its ramparts walls covering a perimeter of 2.41 km and rising to a height of 33.5 m on the town side and 18 m along the river. Outside the ramparts runs a moat, originally connected with the river.


   The places lie along the eastern side of the fort, while two imposing three-storeyed main gateways flanked by semi-octagonal towers and consisting of several apartments are located in the centre of the western and southern sides and are known as the Lahori and Delhi Gates respectively. On the outside, the Delhi gate is flanked by the statues of two elephants renewed in 1903 by Lord Curzon in place of the ones which had been demolished long ago by Aurangzeb. The main entrance to the fort lies through the Lahori Gate and the places are reached through a roofed passage, flanked by arcaded apartments called Chhatta-Chowk and now used as shops. The other portions were originally occupied by the residences of the courtiers and retinue. Both the gates were provided later by barbicans by Aurangzeb. There exist three other entrances on other sides, now largely closed.
 

 

      The master builders of the Red Fort were Hamid and Ahmad while the construction was supervised by other officers, who were amply rewarded by the emperor by appointing them to high positions. Most of the buildings in the fort were once occupied by the British army and bear scars of the vandalistic acts inflicted on them. Quite a number of structures were in bad state and were removed after the Mutiny.

 

 

Naubat or Naqqar Khana

 

    The Naubat or Naqqar Khana (drum house) stands at the entrance of the palace area, and was used for playing music five times a day at propitious hours. It was also called Hathipol, as visitors dismounted from their elephants (hathi) here. Faced with red stone, it is a large three-storeyed building, rectangular on plan. Carved designs on its red stone walls appear to have been originally painted with gold, while the interior was painted in other colours. Several layers of these paintings can be traced even now in the entrance chamber.

       The later Mughal kings Jahandar Shah (1712-13) and Farrukhsiyar (1713-19) are said to have been murdered in the Naubat-Khana. The War Memorial Museum is now housed in its upper storey.

 

Diwan-I-Am

 

      The Diwan-I-Am (hall of public audience) is the next building reached by the visitor. Originally it had a courtyard on its front. The hall proper, three-bays in depth, originally ornamented with gilded stucco work and hung with heavy curtains, is raised on arches springing from pillars and has impressive façade of nine openings of engrailed arches. At its back stands a marble canopy or baldachin, covered by its ‘Bengal’ roof, under which stood the emperor’s throne. The emperor received the general public here and heard their complaints. A marble dais, inlaid with precious stones, stands below the throne and was used by the Prime Minister for receiving the complaints and petitions.

 

   At the back of the canopy the wall is faced with beautiful panels inlaid with multi-coloured stones, representing flowers and birds. These panels are said to have been executed by Austin de Bordeaux, Florentine jeweller. In the central penal on the top is shown the Greek god Orpheus with his lute. The panels were much damaged and at one time removed to the Victoria and Albert Museum in London, but were restored in 1903 at the instance of Lord Curzon. 

 

 

Mumtaz Mahal

    There existed only six main places along the river front, with the Nahr-i-Bihisht (stream of paradise) flowing through them. One of these to the north of the Mumtaz-Mahal, called Chhoti Baithak, has disappeared. The Mumtaz-Mahal is at the southern end of the extant row of places. Built with marble in its lower half of the walls and pillars, it consists of six apartments divided by arched piers, and originally painted on the interior. It formed part of the imperial seraglio. The Delhi Museum of Archaeology, consisting largely of exhibits of the Mughal period, is now housed inside it.

 

Rang-Mahal

      The Rang-Mahal, resting on a basement, consists of a large hall, originally painted on the interior, from which it derives its name, meaning the ‘palace of colour’. Divided into six apartments by engrailed arches set on piers, the two apartments on its northern and southern ends contain marble dados. Over the walls and ceilings of these apartments are embedded tiny pieces of mirror, which reflect the burning match or other light and create thus a picturesque effect. These apartments are known as Shish-Mahal (house of mirrors).

     The building was a part of the imperial seraglio. Through its centre along its length flowed the channel known as Nahr-i-Bihisht. In its centre is a marble basin, which is said to have been provided originally with an ivory foundation.

 

Khas-Mahal

     The Khas-Mahal (private place) consists of three parts. The set of three rooms facing the Diwan-i-Khas is called Tasbih-Khana (chamber for telling beads) and was used for private worship by the emperor. The three rooms behind it are known as Khwabagh (sleeping chamber). To its south a long hall with its painted walls and ceiling and a perforated screen on the west is known either as Tosh-Khana (robe chamber) or Baithak (sitting room). There exists a beautiful marble screen at the northern end of these rooms carved with a ‘scale of Justice’ suspended over a crescent surrounded with stars and clouds.

 

      Below this and other places were organised animal fights, such as between lion and elephants, which could be viewed by the emperor and royal ladies from these places.

    

     There is an inscription over the southern arch of the Khwabgah, from which we learn that the building was begun in 1048 A.H. (1638-39) and completed in 1058 A.H. (1648-49) at a cost of fifty lakhs of rupees, which probably refers to the expenditure incurred on all the places.

 

 Muthamman-Burj

          Adjoining the eastern wall of the Khwabgah is a semi-octagonal tower, called Muthamman-Burj (Octagonal tower), where the emperor appeared every morning before his subjects, the ceremony being known as darshan. A balcony projecting from the central side of the Muthamman-Burj was constructed in 1223. A.H. (1808-09) by Akbar II (1806-37), as stated by him in an inscription over its arches. It was from this balcony that King George V and Queen Mary appeared before the public in 1911.

 

 

Diwan-I-Khas

     The Diwan-I-Khas (hall of private audience) with openings of engrailed arches on its sides consists of a rectangular central chamber surrounded by aisles of arches rising from piers. The lower parts of the piers are inlaid with floral designs, while the upper portions are gilded and painted. The present wooden ceiling of the hall was painted in 1911. The four corners of its roof are surrounded by pillared chhatris.

     Over the marble pedestal in its centre stood the famous Peacock Throne which was removed in 1739 by Nadir Shah. Through the centre of the hall flowed the Nahr-i-Bihisht. Over the corner-arches of the northern and southern walls below the cornice is inscribed the famous verse of Amir Khusraw exclaiming ‘If there be a paradise on the earth, it is this, it is this, it is this’.

      The hall was used by the emperor for giving private audience to the selected countries and visitors. Originally there existed on the west of the Diwan-i-Khas two enclosures, one for the nobles and the other for those who were not of a very high rank. These enclosures were removed after the Mutiny. During the Mutiny Bahadur Shah ii held court in the Diwan-i-Khas.


Hammam

 

   On the north of the Diwan-I-Khas lies the bathroom set or Hammam, consisting of three apartments separated by corridors. The floors and dados of these apartments are built with marble, inlaid with floral patterns of multi-coloured stones. The two rooms on either side of the present entrance were used, it is believed, by the royal children for their bath. The eastern apartment, with three fountain basins, one of which is reputed to have emitted rose-water, was used mainly as the dressing room. There is a basin in the middle of the central room. The western apartment was used for hot or vapour bath, the heating arrangement being fixed in its western wall.

 

Moti-Masjid

    

  To the west of the Hammam lies the small mosque, called the Moti-Masjid (pearl mosque), and built by Aurangazeb for his personal use. The prayer –hall of the mosque is inlaid with outlines of musallas (small carpets for prayers) in black marble, and it stands at a higher level than the courtyard. The hall is surmounted by three bulbous domes, originally copper-plated, which appear to be too constricted at the neck. The eastern door is provided with copper plated leaves. The mosque was also used by the ladies of the seraglio.

 

Hayat-Bakhsh Garden And Pavilions

    The north area of the Moti-Masjid is occupied by a garden, called the Hayat-Bakhsh-Bagh (life-bestowing garden), divided into squares on the pattern of Mughal gardens with causeways and channels between them. It finds mention in the contemporary accounts, although its present layout is new.

      At the north-eastern corner of the garden is a tower, called Shah-Burj, now domeless, which suffered much during the Mutiny. A similar tower known as Asad-Burj stands on the south-eastern corner of the fort. The water for feeding the Nahr-i-Bihisht was apparently lifted up to the Shah-Burj from the river and then carried by channels to the various places. The present pavilion adjoining the tower on the south was perhaps built during Aurangzeb’s reign. In the centre of the north wall is a marble cascade sloping into a ‘scalloed’ basin.


      Two other marble pavilions in the centre of the northern and southern sides of the garden are known as Sawan and Bhadon, two principal months of the rainy season, either because they represent those months or were used during those month/  -98654321`     s, but which is Sawan and which is Bhadon is not exactly certain. The northern one is provided with a tank with niches for candles in its sides, so that the water cascading over them would create a picturesque effect.

      On the elevated strip of land along the eastern wall stood two small marble pavilions, built by Bahadur Shah II, the northern one known as Moti-Masjid and the southern one as Hira-Mahal. The former was removed after the Mutiny; the latter still stands. In the centre of the garden is a large tank with a red stone pavilion in its middle, originally connected by a causeway with the garden. It is known as Zafar-Mahal, after the nom de plume of Bahadur Shah ii, by whom it was built, in about 1842.

   

                                     Nowadays it is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Every year on 15th August the Prime Minister of India hoists the Indian tricolour flag at the main gate and delivers speech. Although the colour of the wall has become a little bit fade, but still today it has importance, and undoubtedly it's a part of India's pride.


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